Kaua'i's prize hike begins at the western end of Route 56 and proceeds 11 mi to Kalalau Beach. Folding sea cliffs thousands of feet high, sliced by deep valleys of tropical vegetation, tower over the narrow footpath. There are sea caves, arches, secluded beaches, waterfalls, and after it rains, rainbows. (Don't think a little rain spoils the view here.) And did we mention green? Every possible shade of green is revealed by the myriad plants growing along the coast.
Feral goats and wild pigs share the trails, while large marine and tiny forest birds soar on the wind currents above. Once, large settlements of Hawaiians lived in the valleys and terraced the land for taro cultivation. Many of the valleys still contain rock walls, housing platforms, and other remains of their communities.
In winter months the big surf is dramatic as seen -- and heard -- from the coastal trail, although heavy rains can cause flash floods at stream crossings and trail erosion in some places. Summers, the trail is dryer and, frankly, safer. It's also busier.
With hairpin turns and constant ups and downs, this hike is a true test of endurance and isn't tackled round-trip in one day, even by the fittest of the fit. Many people don't even make the 11 mi to Kalalau Beach in one day; actually most don't even attempt it. Instead, most people hike the first 2 mi to Hanakapi'i Beach, a rewarding hike in itself.
There are small quarter-mile markers all along the trail (although some are missing). At the half-mile point, the wrinkles of the Na Pali Coast unfold before you. Even if you go no further, make every attempt to reach this point, and after you look down the coastline, look back. You'll see a dramatic view of the beach you came from.
If you plan to hike beyond Hanakapi'i Beach to Kalalau, a camping permit must be obtained from the Department of Land and Natural Resources. Permits must also be obtained to camp at Miloli'i, Koke'e, and Polihale. Permits, which are issued for five nights maximum, are free and can be requested up to a year in advance.